Max Allen Reviews Cullen Wines

Cullen constellation – Max Allen Drinks columnist Australian Financial Review Aug 9, 2019 — 5.55am

2018 Cullen Rose Moon [Margaret River]
This beautifully moreish sparkling wine is a blend of juice pressed from all the red varieties in the Cullen vineyards (cabernet, merlot, malbec, etc), made and bottled without any additions (no yeast, sulphur, etc). Bright, tangy, gluggable and fun, but with depth and weight enough to match bold, spicy food. $50

2017 Cullen Kevin John [Margaret River]
As extraordinarily focused and fine as the special, limited bottling of 2016 Kevin John Fruit Day Chardonnay (just 75 dozen bottles at $250 a pop), I was utterly blown away by this (half the price, 1700 dozen bottles): exquisitely precise, intensely flavoured and endless, it is a classic modern Australian chardonnay. $127

2017 Cullen Diana Madeline [Margaret River]
I have tasted this wine twice recently on separate occasions and been extremely impressed both times: it’s hard to imagine a more perfectly balanced cabernet merlot blend – perfumed, elegant, fine, long. In fact, it tastes so effortless and refined that it’s easy to overlook the concentration of blackcurrant and ironstone flavours lurking at its core, waiting to unfurl as the wine matures in the cellar. $129

2016 Cullen Vanya Flower Day Cabernet Sauvignon [Margaret River]
Picked according to the biodynamic calendar, fermented in amphorae and pressed off after 107 days on skins, this is a very different but delicious expression of Margaret River cabernet: more translucent, more floral and aromatic than most, with amazing, seamless, super-fine tannins falling gently but persuasively across the tongue. $500

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