Join the ranks of the wine-buying elite. By Matthew Jukes

I talked about top-drawer chardonnays that were sold “on allocation” last week, referring to select chablis. Well, this Kevin John is so scarce that there is not even enough stock for me to put it on my 100 Best Australian Wines list each year, even though it is always of insane quality. This wine and its “brother”, 2013 Cullen Diana Madeline, a jaw-droppingly serious cabernet (in the 100 Best 2015/2016), are both on the shelf right now at the merchants listed above.

Red alert! These wines are allocated to indie merchants in their barrels, long before they are bottled and shipped, such is their allure. The Wine Society, Hedonism Wines, WineDirect.co.uk, FreeRunJuice.co.uk and TheSecretCellar.co.uk will, in turn, receive stock too.

But are you on these merchants’ radars? You have to be if you want the wine because they operate an allocation system for their private clients. There are only a few wineries in the world whose wines are allocated in this way – examples include Burgundies such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Rousseau and Roumier. Cullen is a worthy member of this elite.

• Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (MatthewJukes.com).

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